Another trendy restaurant closes in Budapest: what will happen to the casual yet high-quality hospitality?

Esca, a trendy restaurant in Budapest, will close by Christmas after 11 years, shifting to a more flexible format due to economic challenges. Chef Gábor Fehér and his wife Zsófia Kékedi plan to operate through events and pop-up dinners in rural areas, moving away from traditional fixed-location dining. They believe the high costs of rent and taxes in the city make it unsustainable to run a high-quality yet casual restaurant. Fehér emphasizes the need for a more relaxed dining experience that still maintains quality, as many young chefs are opting for similar paths. He critiques the perception of fine dining and highlights the importance of accessible, high-quality food without the formalities.

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